Unfortunately, this is only true of my design. If you are just using the cyclone with a dust collector connected with a flex hose, and not close, it doesn't matter which side the inlet on the cyclone is located. How much air we need to move is simply 350 CFM at most larger stationary tools if we want good "chip collection" which picks up the same stuff we would otherwise sweep up with a broom. Air at dust collection pressures is more like water so any restriction, bad rough ducting, etc. They allare made ofG90, 24 ga galvanized steel and have 1/8" thick flanges on the bottom for mounting.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cyclone-Separator-for-Dust-Collector-with-Left-hand-Inlet-/280840027122. I can only find options online to buy the blower with the cyclone. Blower technology is mature meaning the same type, size and speed blower from any of the reputable blower makers will move almost exactly the same air. The optimum dimensions for an 18" cyclone would be a 5' long rectangular 9"x4.5" inlet. Placed between a dust collector and woodworking piece of machinery they will separate out sawdust down to very fine particles. Since no one has seen your set up it is hard to comment, but many people had the set up you described with a 3HP blower with out the issue you encountered. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Then ensure you have the right size ducting, hoses, tool hoods and tool ports. Amazon Daily Deals What will happen is the static pressure will build as the filter seasons then hold fairly steady for a while. If we use these units with fine filters we end up putting one pound of filter clogging airborne dust into our filters with every twenty pounds of dust we create. inlet What is going on and what can I do to fix my cyclone?
If you are wanting to move to a different solution, ClearVue is pretty good. They are designed for small commercial shops or the home woodworking hobbyist. One pound of airborne dust will clog a 100 square foot fine filter to point it will barely pass air which is why we often must clean our fine filters.
Blower technology is mature meaning the same type, size and speed blower from any of the reputable blower makers will move almost exactly the same air. If the price were higher I'd look into a sheet of wacky wood, or maybe sheet metal, for the cone and some steel for a fame to put it all on a cart. web pages. I have the CV1800 cyclone and 16" fan, 5HP. Anything else will greatly cost airflow. No Interest if paid in full in 6 months on $99+. Take that money and buy a good impeller and motor then make or buy the right sized blower housing for your impeller. To estimate static pressure we can either add up the individual resistance measures of every part in each ducting run, or use a static calculator to make an estimate. 
At the typical volumes and low pressures used in dust collection air is virtually incompressible. Two different types of fine filters are used with woodworking, blended polyester cellulose filters and the roughly twice as expensive all polyester filters. Blower motors move the most air and do the most work when they have the least resistance.
I cut 54 linear feet of 3/4" particle board on my table saw. I powered it with my Jet 1.5 hp DC-1100 with an 11" impeller. There's only two ways that can happen: (1) there is a leak somewhere in the barrel, causing air flow from the barrel up the cyclone to the filters (2) there is MASSIVE air turbulence in the barrel caused by the airflow in the cyclone. 
I did mount the blower directly to the top of the DDXL, so perhaps the venting was enough to slow air turbulence or I had a leak somewhere. If you closed the intake and tested with your amp meter, you would find your unit is loafing! The ClearVue is substantially larger than the DDXL. 41 inches tall, 18 inches in diameter, 6 inch inlet on side, 7 inch discharge on top and a 6 inch discharge on bottom with a flange and 8 holes for mounting. It is a fact that the 4" ducting we used for chip collection will not support much more than about 450 CFM when powered by a typical hobbyist sized blower.
Also there is a 1600 CFM plug fan that uses a caged impeller that can work. The build your own blower plans on these pages will get you an excellent blower that you can use to power either a cyclone or dust collector. Don't bother, you mess with the cylinder dimensions and you could mess up the separation badly.
And yes, your cyclone will work with a 5 hp motor and 16" impeller that large provided you never make a mistake and turn it on with all the blast gates open or have any short runs with huge hoods. The long thin cyclones you see need far bigger motors, do a great job on chip collection separation, and blow the fine dust away outside. If it is barely using the horsepower available what does adding more horsepower do when the bigger motor turns at the same speed except waste your money and electricity? So, I have a 24g wood cyclone already made up with a 6" inlet & outlet and the neutral vane. i have seen the oneida C-650 at $400 /or / the east caroga Lg. How much will it cost me to weld on the tabs on my impeller and get it balanced? That is generally with the pipe ending very close to the center edge of the cyclone (a perpendicular line at the end of your inlet pipe would go right through the center of the cyclone looking from above). they will leave about twenty times less fine unhealthy invisible dust particles in your shop air. Good thought though. This consistency lets us check a fan curve from any of the major name blower makers to size our blower. These cyclones are for use with woodworking dust collectors and large shop vacuums.
Does this apply for the STOCK Wood cyclone (with a neutral vane added)? In my fairly large metropolitan area there is one and only one shop with the tools to do this custom balancing.
The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H.
This is why most commercial shops that use fine filters must replace their expensive fine filters quarterly.
Could this be part of the problem for Chris?Most guys say their systems are under powered , and this is why I started with a 3HP Grizzly blower .
They use thePittsburgh lock procedure for seams and some seams are alsosoldered.
Dick and Rick Wynn have been very helpful both with information, supplying top quality filters for good prices, and top quality flex hose and hose clamps for excellent prices as well. I also looked at the Clearvue, though I haven't found anyone who has added the Clearvue to this Grizzly dust collector. The cyclones all have the following in common. Have a new tall 3X cone, a 9" outlet made and a 9" round inlet? I got away with this because the blower housing I had was actually made to handle either the 11" impeller supplied or the 12" impeller offered on the next larger model. Small shop blowers are mostly poorly engineered so rarely move as much air as good commercial blowers. Just keep an eye on it when planning as that seems to be the only time there is a problem. Had he followed my advice and gone with all 6" ducting and 6" hoses, with nice straight smooth runs he could have gotten by with a smaller impeller and less suction, but his cyclone would still have been at risk.
Your previous content has been restored. I am not suggesting that necessarily justifies it, but they are pretty different. Bill I've had my cyclone for a few years and at first it seemed to work well, but now it does not suck well enough to do a good job of "chip collection" and I find myself having to constantly clean its fine dust filter.
If you are just using the cyclone with a dust collector connected with a flex hose, and not close, it doesn't matter which side the inlet on the cyclone is located. Try it as is? Amazon Prime. Change the cyclone bottom cone dust outlet to 6" in size. You also can also just upgrade the impeller on your unit, but I would not consider doing so until after opening the ports.
Without that airflow you are not going to gather the very fine most dangerous dust. Remember all of these must go on the "clean air" side of the cyclone. For the same reason flex hose adds from three to nine times the resistance of smooth walled pipe. The motor overpowered that as well. Compound this reduced airflow with any mistakes we make in not properly upgrading out tool hoods and ports or bad ducting mistakes plus using not that good of a blower and most small shop cyclones and dust collectors end up a year or so later working far worse than when new. Appreciate the link though. If we use an oversized blower impeller and motor we can generate more pressure and force more air through a smaller duct. Most will have their meters all but peg due to the poor collection of their cyclones. Do you have some links where I could find such an animal??
If you supercharge the amount of air going in with a series of blowers all the blowers get so much air their motors can quickly burn out. I have read that any leaks below the cyclone will pull chips out of the drum. Remove the existing blower inlet cover and make up a new cover out of 3/4" plywood that matches the plywood on the cyclone and the new inlet diameter. My plans for the blower are to use my current 2 hp DC blower in a push through configuration to see if it works OK. Before using it I will have a local machine shop weld 1" tabs onto each blade and balance the result. I ended up returning the DDXL with the intent to buy into a CV at some point, but couldn't swing it immediately financially. Might be worth a look if money matters. In fact, speed up the impeller and you now know how to make an air raid siren. This will put the air into the cyclone smoothly and right on the surface to minimize turbulence and give up to a 50% reduction in resistance compared to the original design. Sadly, most small shop blowers are not nearly as well made so the best we can hope for is what is normal for commercial blowers. Because the bags have so little surface area, poorly sized fine filters quickly plug building up a huge amount of resistance. I made that comment before the "neutral vane" became a popular fix. We pick from our table the blower housing size or our selected impeller that uses the same or next larger size opening as our main duct. The following shares the detail why. This is the EXACT thing I am planing. You can make for less turbulence if you make a taper. Actually, my spreadsheet wants the outlet to extend 1/8 of the outer diameter below the inlet, including neutral vane. This helps fine particle separation and provides an additional big saving in overall air resistance. Unfortunately, cleaning fine filters rapidly ruins them. If you order your cyclone from this page you will receive a cyclone with the inlet on the right hand side.
All told I probably have $5-600 invested in this, if I were smarter I would have bought a grizzly cyclonebut then it's harder to slide $800 past the wife at once rather than $150 here and there. The filter material makers provide charts and tables that tell us how much filter are we need for a given air volume.
Then install the right size and type of filter for your cyclone or vent it outside.
Worse, the results almost always sound like sirens because the blades get too close to the blower shroud generating lots of extra noise. Got any pics?
I returned the one I bought like this after a long nasty fight with the vendor.
I actually had this exact problem with my HF 2HP version. I am taking your advice and upgrading to a 9" outlet. If you cut off the airflow the blower loafs along using the least amount of power. First time I fired it up, it sucked the pipes clean as well as emptied the barrel. 
The result is my inbox continues to be filled with emails from people upset because their systems start off working great, but over the course of about one year the airflow drops so low they no longer even get good chip collection and the meters consistently show poor worsening fine dust collection. Sadly the 1.5 hp blower is air starved, meaning it does not get enough air to even use 1 hp of power. His cyclone ended up about 3" thick and his 30-gauge HVAC lightweight straight long ducting runs all crimped. I ended going without a separator for the short term. Strangely the particle counters made matters worse instead of better. I finally found and recommend Wynn Environmental. Most industrial and home built cyclones are pull through units.
It is a good idea to let the air in your shop settle for a whole day. My maker used one size blower for a whole bunch of impeller sizes.
Properly sizing a cyclone requires us to know how much air we need to move and to also know both the minimum and maximum resistance our cyclone must work against. The problem almost always comes down to bad air flow caused by the same few issues. Kindle Unlimited Membership Plans You can easily make this extension by using a piece of HVAC snap lock pipe from a home center. This vendor has since hired me as a consultant and I worked with them to increase their blower and impeller sizes so they are now well balanced for their dust collector and cyclone products. Regular bags and cartridge filters add about 2" of resistance when clean and new and up to 5" of resistance when fully seasoned. One of my friend's kids closed the last open duct on the same design cyclone that did not have the recommended wooden rings to keep all round.
It took me nearly two years of looking before I found a 15" impeller on eBay because there are too many of us all looking for the same thing. At the typical volumes and pressures used in dust collection we need 6" duct to move 800 CFM. cyclone sandblaster
If we are going to filter, then we really need to upgrade to ensure our unit has enough filter.
Unless you use an oversized impeller you need at least a 7" blower inlet and outlet and at least a 14" diameter blower impeller. The first and most important serious modification is to go with 6" ducting and 6" flex hose right to your machines and change all the machine ports to full 6" inlets. The bottom of the cyclone is only 4", so it tends to clog pretty easily. Most of the time, I just take off the face plate of the blower and the 9" cyclone outlet ends up defining a 9" blower inlet. What is not well covered are the cyclone and filter sizing issues, and what you can do to improve your existing cyclone that becomes a marginal performer. I already disassembled and sold the old setup, and reverted the new DC to the intended formation until I can a separator figured out. I am also looking for advice on this. Our filters are made of all polyester plastic resin or polyester resin mixed with cellulose fiber. After three to five washings the polyester filters are also shot and need replaced. Help? So my question for the forum is if anyone has any experience building a large cyclone, and if so, do you recommend the build or just buy? It can take a lot of full air changes each reducing by half to pull the air under EPA limits.
Most in private industry find that with the all poly filters costing double the blended filters that by the time they factor in the down time and labor to do the washing, that it is easier and less costly to use the blended filters. You need to carefully check your final system with an amp meter while all blast gates are open fully to ensure you do not draw too many amps. The large diameter of this outlet minimizes exiting airspeed to reduce turbulence and keep from pulling the fine dust off the cyclone walls.
I think that is too much to pay! Extending that inlet by adding an extension that goes to the center edge of the cyclone generates about 1/3 less turbulence improving airflow, but does little to reduce the amount of fine dust going into our filters.
If you have ample motor and impeller, but blower with 6" inlet and 6" outlet, upgrading your ducts to all 7" will help considerably. Regardless, I paid $60 for welding and $80 to have an impeller modified and dynamic balanced. deputy oneida separator moulded Use polyurethane caulk to glue this to the top of the cyclone (caution - silicone caulk will eventually let loose on galvanized metal due to a chemical reaction). A fully seasoned filter gets so blocked it will block up to 80% of our airflow if not properly sized. This is a good thought, but I believe this would be tool small.
Clearvue sells their cyclone bodies separately for $450. 41 inches tall, 18 inches in diameter, 6 inch inlet on side, 7 inch discharge on top and a 6 inch discharge on bottom with a flange and 8 holes for mounting. It does not make sense that barrel is getting emptied by the cyclone/blower. If you would like to build a cyclone tower with your dust collector fan motor you should make sure that the incoming air flow of your cyclone is going in the same direction as your fan motor. How would that compare to the WOOD plan with the neutral vane?? If we do not collect the fine dust, then even the finest filter in the world will not protect us. If you are going to keep the small motor and impeller I'd add the neutral vane and quit. I am considering the Oneida Super Dust Deputy XL. There must be a leak somewhere. Wynn Environmental now offers their filter pans that will add 30 more square feet of very high quality fine filter area and a nice pan to capture the fine dust when you clean your filters. The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1\/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H. | Display as a link instead, oneida cyclone separator moulded
That still leaves us to size our blower impeller, motor and housing.
A less expensive option is to make up a new cover out of 3/4" to 1" MDF or plywood to mate to the 9" or 10" cyclone outlet pipe.
I would like to know what you would advise at this point for the least possible expense?
As a result these cyclones send almost all of the fine dust right into the filters. How big of a bin are you using?
With this setup I get a decent amount of suction, but of course we're not talking about fine dust here. Many small shop vendors would like us to think sizing our filter is rocket science because most have serious problems with using fine filters. This can save nearly a full horsepower on the cyclone motor. Paste as plain text instead, It does not take much of a leak to cause this to happen. And if you really want to do it right, toss that cyclone and go build a new one from my web pages. I see these once in a rare while on the Internet surplus shops selling for about $30 each. Additional information will also be given on each products page. As filters age they get filled with dust that does not come out with normal cleaning. Copyright 1995-2022 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Every time our system removes a full shop of air we only get about half of the airborne dust. Is it ok to reduce the cyclone outlet right at the top of the cyclone so the blower can be top mounted?
Dust collectors use impeller blowers that work the hardest when they push the most air. The best way to test is to start with a clean shop and filter. View cart for details. As soon as the pressure drops two water column inches below the fully seasoned pressure level it is time to toss and replace your filters. Unfortunately, unless your cyclone diameter and cone are just right adding an air ramp actually decreases separation efficiency. One of my friends powers his two cyclones with a pair of 12" diameter dust collection blowers but he had to upgrade to more powerful motors. A clean new filter will move far more air than a clean but well used filter. Many engineered DC's I see about the countryside seem to have very short cylinders and very long (by comparison) cones and now that you mention it, rectangular inlets also. Dimensions seem like they are similar to the SDD XL. April 9, 2017 in The Shop. Pasted as rich text. Is that reasonable, and if it is will it still work with my cyclone? What did you end up deciding? For those who made early designs with only a 4" or 5" cyclone inlet pipe, you really need to open up the inlet port to 6". We start by sizing our impeller. This roughly one third increase in total filter area will immediately let you know if the issue is poorly sized filters. The 16" fan is supposed to go with the larger CVMAX cyclone, but it works fine with the CV1800.
Others have used other brands including a few who get used large truck cartridge air filters.
Go to a good fan table for material handling blowers, locate the column that has the same maximum static pressure as estimated for our system then pick the first impeller size that will move as much air as we want, generally 350 CFM for chip collection or 1000 CFM for fine dust collection.
Anyone have opinions on whether the clearview is worth the ~$200 premium over the DDXL? Until recently this required you to spend the money to buy new filters. Likewise you should at the same time install a bigger outlet pipe in your cyclone that is half the cyclone diameter. By the time I paid shipping charges to return the two larger units they sent as replacements, I could have bought the best commercial blower and motor made. To size the motor we stay on the same line where we found our impeller and check to see how many horse power will be drawn at our lowest resistance level. Maybe an East Caroga metal cyclone, or a slightly bigger alternative . Yes, the key here is to make sure that it is big enough to not create a fast airflow out and long enough. With my shop vac the little Dust Deputy is adequate. Same diameter as the dust deputy XL but taller. When you next turn on your cyclone these dust coated filters fill our shops with that static collected fine dust, so we do this clean out and external filter cleaning to make sure it is not there. These were very pricey filters, should have been at least 500 instead of just just 450 square feet, and arrived with shipping damage. It is important to make sure the container is airtight for the system to work properly.
And yes, you still should use a 2-3 hp 3450-RPM blower motor. The cyclones are designed to have virtually no air movement near the opening at the bottom, so dust can settle via gravity in to the barrel.
The result is the air whips around once then crashes right into the incoming air creating all kinds of turbulence and poor separation. Funny thing is that I'm looking at the same decision right now. Standard ratios and dust bin end up making a 21" diameter cyclone too tall to fit under the normal 8' tall shop ceiling, plus 7" duct is difficult to find and expensive to buy.
With your current blower shroud you can either buy a bigger impeller or have a welder add more blade area to the tips of your impeller blade. Now in terms of your cyclone, can it handle this much pressure, only a maybe. In theory the 3X cone really helps with the finest dust separation, but in actually testing this length on a traditional cyclone design is not nearly as efficient as a 1.64 times the diameter length on my design.
They also carry the much bigger Farr compatible 300 square foot filters. These units are not self cleaning like typical material handling dust collector impellers. We really need at least a 3 hp dust collector or a 5 hp cyclone vented outside to be assured of moving enough air for good fine dust collection.
Minimum resistance occurs with the shortest, most open, smoothest ducting run with cleanest filters.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cyclone-Separator-for-Dust-Collector-with-Left-hand-Inlet-/280840027122. I can only find options online to buy the blower with the cyclone. Blower technology is mature meaning the same type, size and speed blower from any of the reputable blower makers will move almost exactly the same air. The optimum dimensions for an 18" cyclone would be a 5' long rectangular 9"x4.5" inlet. Placed between a dust collector and woodworking piece of machinery they will separate out sawdust down to very fine particles. Since no one has seen your set up it is hard to comment, but many people had the set up you described with a 3HP blower with out the issue you encountered. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Then ensure you have the right size ducting, hoses, tool hoods and tool ports. Amazon Daily Deals What will happen is the static pressure will build as the filter seasons then hold fairly steady for a while. If we use these units with fine filters we end up putting one pound of filter clogging airborne dust into our filters with every twenty pounds of dust we create. inlet What is going on and what can I do to fix my cyclone?
If you are wanting to move to a different solution, ClearVue is pretty good. They are designed for small commercial shops or the home woodworking hobbyist. One pound of airborne dust will clog a 100 square foot fine filter to point it will barely pass air which is why we often must clean our fine filters.
Blower technology is mature meaning the same type, size and speed blower from any of the reputable blower makers will move almost exactly the same air. If the price were higher I'd look into a sheet of wacky wood, or maybe sheet metal, for the cone and some steel for a fame to put it all on a cart. web pages. I have the CV1800 cyclone and 16" fan, 5HP. Anything else will greatly cost airflow. No Interest if paid in full in 6 months on $99+. Take that money and buy a good impeller and motor then make or buy the right sized blower housing for your impeller. To estimate static pressure we can either add up the individual resistance measures of every part in each ducting run, or use a static calculator to make an estimate. At the typical volumes and low pressures used in dust collection air is virtually incompressible. Two different types of fine filters are used with woodworking, blended polyester cellulose filters and the roughly twice as expensive all polyester filters. Blower motors move the most air and do the most work when they have the least resistance.
I cut 54 linear feet of 3/4" particle board on my table saw. I powered it with my Jet 1.5 hp DC-1100 with an 11" impeller. There's only two ways that can happen: (1) there is a leak somewhere in the barrel, causing air flow from the barrel up the cyclone to the filters (2) there is MASSIVE air turbulence in the barrel caused by the airflow in the cyclone. I did mount the blower directly to the top of the DDXL, so perhaps the venting was enough to slow air turbulence or I had a leak somewhere. If you closed the intake and tested with your amp meter, you would find your unit is loafing! The ClearVue is substantially larger than the DDXL. 41 inches tall, 18 inches in diameter, 6 inch inlet on side, 7 inch discharge on top and a 6 inch discharge on bottom with a flange and 8 holes for mounting. It is a fact that the 4" ducting we used for chip collection will not support much more than about 450 CFM when powered by a typical hobbyist sized blower. Also there is a 1600 CFM plug fan that uses a caged impeller that can work. The build your own blower plans on these pages will get you an excellent blower that you can use to power either a cyclone or dust collector. Don't bother, you mess with the cylinder dimensions and you could mess up the separation badly.
And yes, your cyclone will work with a 5 hp motor and 16" impeller that large provided you never make a mistake and turn it on with all the blast gates open or have any short runs with huge hoods. The long thin cyclones you see need far bigger motors, do a great job on chip collection separation, and blow the fine dust away outside. If it is barely using the horsepower available what does adding more horsepower do when the bigger motor turns at the same speed except waste your money and electricity? So, I have a 24g wood cyclone already made up with a 6" inlet & outlet and the neutral vane. i have seen the oneida C-650 at $400 /or / the east caroga Lg. How much will it cost me to weld on the tabs on my impeller and get it balanced? That is generally with the pipe ending very close to the center edge of the cyclone (a perpendicular line at the end of your inlet pipe would go right through the center of the cyclone looking from above). they will leave about twenty times less fine unhealthy invisible dust particles in your shop air. Good thought though. This consistency lets us check a fan curve from any of the major name blower makers to size our blower. These cyclones are for use with woodworking dust collectors and large shop vacuums. Does this apply for the STOCK Wood cyclone (with a neutral vane added)? In my fairly large metropolitan area there is one and only one shop with the tools to do this custom balancing.
The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H. This is why most commercial shops that use fine filters must replace their expensive fine filters quarterly.
Could this be part of the problem for Chris?Most guys say their systems are under powered , and this is why I started with a 3HP Grizzly blower .
They use thePittsburgh lock procedure for seams and some seams are alsosoldered.
Dick and Rick Wynn have been very helpful both with information, supplying top quality filters for good prices, and top quality flex hose and hose clamps for excellent prices as well. I also looked at the Clearvue, though I haven't found anyone who has added the Clearvue to this Grizzly dust collector. The cyclones all have the following in common. Have a new tall 3X cone, a 9" outlet made and a 9" round inlet? I got away with this because the blower housing I had was actually made to handle either the 11" impeller supplied or the 12" impeller offered on the next larger model. Small shop blowers are mostly poorly engineered so rarely move as much air as good commercial blowers. Just keep an eye on it when planning as that seems to be the only time there is a problem. Had he followed my advice and gone with all 6" ducting and 6" hoses, with nice straight smooth runs he could have gotten by with a smaller impeller and less suction, but his cyclone would still have been at risk.
Your previous content has been restored. I am not suggesting that necessarily justifies it, but they are pretty different. Bill I've had my cyclone for a few years and at first it seemed to work well, but now it does not suck well enough to do a good job of "chip collection" and I find myself having to constantly clean its fine dust filter.
If you are just using the cyclone with a dust collector connected with a flex hose, and not close, it doesn't matter which side the inlet on the cyclone is located. Try it as is? Amazon Prime. Change the cyclone bottom cone dust outlet to 6" in size. You also can also just upgrade the impeller on your unit, but I would not consider doing so until after opening the ports.
Without that airflow you are not going to gather the very fine most dangerous dust. Remember all of these must go on the "clean air" side of the cyclone. For the same reason flex hose adds from three to nine times the resistance of smooth walled pipe. The motor overpowered that as well. Compound this reduced airflow with any mistakes we make in not properly upgrading out tool hoods and ports or bad ducting mistakes plus using not that good of a blower and most small shop cyclones and dust collectors end up a year or so later working far worse than when new. Appreciate the link though. If we use an oversized blower impeller and motor we can generate more pressure and force more air through a smaller duct. Most will have their meters all but peg due to the poor collection of their cyclones. Do you have some links where I could find such an animal?? If you supercharge the amount of air going in with a series of blowers all the blowers get so much air their motors can quickly burn out. I have read that any leaks below the cyclone will pull chips out of the drum. Remove the existing blower inlet cover and make up a new cover out of 3/4" plywood that matches the plywood on the cyclone and the new inlet diameter. My plans for the blower are to use my current 2 hp DC blower in a push through configuration to see if it works OK. Before using it I will have a local machine shop weld 1" tabs onto each blade and balance the result. I ended up returning the DDXL with the intent to buy into a CV at some point, but couldn't swing it immediately financially. Might be worth a look if money matters. In fact, speed up the impeller and you now know how to make an air raid siren. This will put the air into the cyclone smoothly and right on the surface to minimize turbulence and give up to a 50% reduction in resistance compared to the original design. Sadly, most small shop blowers are not nearly as well made so the best we can hope for is what is normal for commercial blowers. Because the bags have so little surface area, poorly sized fine filters quickly plug building up a huge amount of resistance. I made that comment before the "neutral vane" became a popular fix. We pick from our table the blower housing size or our selected impeller that uses the same or next larger size opening as our main duct. The following shares the detail why. This is the EXACT thing I am planing. You can make for less turbulence if you make a taper. Actually, my spreadsheet wants the outlet to extend 1/8 of the outer diameter below the inlet, including neutral vane. This helps fine particle separation and provides an additional big saving in overall air resistance. Unfortunately, cleaning fine filters rapidly ruins them. If you order your cyclone from this page you will receive a cyclone with the inlet on the right hand side.
All told I probably have $5-600 invested in this, if I were smarter I would have bought a grizzly cyclonebut then it's harder to slide $800 past the wife at once rather than $150 here and there. The filter material makers provide charts and tables that tell us how much filter are we need for a given air volume.
Then install the right size and type of filter for your cyclone or vent it outside. Worse, the results almost always sound like sirens because the blades get too close to the blower shroud generating lots of extra noise. Got any pics?
I returned the one I bought like this after a long nasty fight with the vendor.
I actually had this exact problem with my HF 2HP version. I am taking your advice and upgrading to a 9" outlet. If you cut off the airflow the blower loafs along using the least amount of power. First time I fired it up, it sucked the pipes clean as well as emptied the barrel. The result is my inbox continues to be filled with emails from people upset because their systems start off working great, but over the course of about one year the airflow drops so low they no longer even get good chip collection and the meters consistently show poor worsening fine dust collection. Sadly the 1.5 hp blower is air starved, meaning it does not get enough air to even use 1 hp of power. His cyclone ended up about 3" thick and his 30-gauge HVAC lightweight straight long ducting runs all crimped. I ended going without a separator for the short term. Strangely the particle counters made matters worse instead of better. I finally found and recommend Wynn Environmental. Most industrial and home built cyclones are pull through units. It is a good idea to let the air in your shop settle for a whole day. My maker used one size blower for a whole bunch of impeller sizes.
Properly sizing a cyclone requires us to know how much air we need to move and to also know both the minimum and maximum resistance our cyclone must work against. The problem almost always comes down to bad air flow caused by the same few issues. Kindle Unlimited Membership Plans You can easily make this extension by using a piece of HVAC snap lock pipe from a home center. This vendor has since hired me as a consultant and I worked with them to increase their blower and impeller sizes so they are now well balanced for their dust collector and cyclone products. Regular bags and cartridge filters add about 2" of resistance when clean and new and up to 5" of resistance when fully seasoned. One of my friend's kids closed the last open duct on the same design cyclone that did not have the recommended wooden rings to keep all round.
It took me nearly two years of looking before I found a 15" impeller on eBay because there are too many of us all looking for the same thing. At the typical volumes and pressures used in dust collection we need 6" duct to move 800 CFM. cyclone sandblaster
If we are going to filter, then we really need to upgrade to ensure our unit has enough filter.
Unless you use an oversized impeller you need at least a 7" blower inlet and outlet and at least a 14" diameter blower impeller. The first and most important serious modification is to go with 6" ducting and 6" flex hose right to your machines and change all the machine ports to full 6" inlets. The bottom of the cyclone is only 4", so it tends to clog pretty easily. Most of the time, I just take off the face plate of the blower and the 9" cyclone outlet ends up defining a 9" blower inlet. What is not well covered are the cyclone and filter sizing issues, and what you can do to improve your existing cyclone that becomes a marginal performer. I already disassembled and sold the old setup, and reverted the new DC to the intended formation until I can a separator figured out. I am also looking for advice on this. Our filters are made of all polyester plastic resin or polyester resin mixed with cellulose fiber. After three to five washings the polyester filters are also shot and need replaced. Help? So my question for the forum is if anyone has any experience building a large cyclone, and if so, do you recommend the build or just buy? It can take a lot of full air changes each reducing by half to pull the air under EPA limits.
Most in private industry find that with the all poly filters costing double the blended filters that by the time they factor in the down time and labor to do the washing, that it is easier and less costly to use the blended filters. You need to carefully check your final system with an amp meter while all blast gates are open fully to ensure you do not draw too many amps. The large diameter of this outlet minimizes exiting airspeed to reduce turbulence and keep from pulling the fine dust off the cyclone walls.
I think that is too much to pay! Extending that inlet by adding an extension that goes to the center edge of the cyclone generates about 1/3 less turbulence improving airflow, but does little to reduce the amount of fine dust going into our filters.
If you have ample motor and impeller, but blower with 6" inlet and 6" outlet, upgrading your ducts to all 7" will help considerably. Regardless, I paid $60 for welding and $80 to have an impeller modified and dynamic balanced. deputy oneida separator moulded Use polyurethane caulk to glue this to the top of the cyclone (caution - silicone caulk will eventually let loose on galvanized metal due to a chemical reaction). A fully seasoned filter gets so blocked it will block up to 80% of our airflow if not properly sized. This is a good thought, but I believe this would be tool small.
Clearvue sells their cyclone bodies separately for $450. 41 inches tall, 18 inches in diameter, 6 inch inlet on side, 7 inch discharge on top and a 6 inch discharge on bottom with a flange and 8 holes for mounting. It does not make sense that barrel is getting emptied by the cyclone/blower. If you would like to build a cyclone tower with your dust collector fan motor you should make sure that the incoming air flow of your cyclone is going in the same direction as your fan motor. How would that compare to the WOOD plan with the neutral vane?? If we do not collect the fine dust, then even the finest filter in the world will not protect us. If you are going to keep the small motor and impeller I'd add the neutral vane and quit. I am considering the Oneida Super Dust Deputy XL. There must be a leak somewhere. Wynn Environmental now offers their filter pans that will add 30 more square feet of very high quality fine filter area and a nice pan to capture the fine dust when you clean your filters. The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1\/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H. | Display as a link instead, oneida cyclone separator moulded
That still leaves us to size our blower impeller, motor and housing.
A less expensive option is to make up a new cover out of 3/4" to 1" MDF or plywood to mate to the 9" or 10" cyclone outlet pipe.
I would like to know what you would advise at this point for the least possible expense?
As a result these cyclones send almost all of the fine dust right into the filters. How big of a bin are you using?
With this setup I get a decent amount of suction, but of course we're not talking about fine dust here. Many small shop vendors would like us to think sizing our filter is rocket science because most have serious problems with using fine filters. This can save nearly a full horsepower on the cyclone motor. Paste as plain text instead, It does not take much of a leak to cause this to happen. And if you really want to do it right, toss that cyclone and go build a new one from my web pages. I see these once in a rare while on the Internet surplus shops selling for about $30 each. Additional information will also be given on each products page. As filters age they get filled with dust that does not come out with normal cleaning. Copyright 1995-2022 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Every time our system removes a full shop of air we only get about half of the airborne dust. Is it ok to reduce the cyclone outlet right at the top of the cyclone so the blower can be top mounted?
Dust collectors use impeller blowers that work the hardest when they push the most air. The best way to test is to start with a clean shop and filter. View cart for details. As soon as the pressure drops two water column inches below the fully seasoned pressure level it is time to toss and replace your filters. Unfortunately, unless your cyclone diameter and cone are just right adding an air ramp actually decreases separation efficiency. One of my friends powers his two cyclones with a pair of 12" diameter dust collection blowers but he had to upgrade to more powerful motors. A clean new filter will move far more air than a clean but well used filter. Many engineered DC's I see about the countryside seem to have very short cylinders and very long (by comparison) cones and now that you mention it, rectangular inlets also. Dimensions seem like they are similar to the SDD XL. April 9, 2017 in The Shop. Pasted as rich text. Is that reasonable, and if it is will it still work with my cyclone? What did you end up deciding? For those who made early designs with only a 4" or 5" cyclone inlet pipe, you really need to open up the inlet port to 6". We start by sizing our impeller. This roughly one third increase in total filter area will immediately let you know if the issue is poorly sized filters. The 16" fan is supposed to go with the larger CVMAX cyclone, but it works fine with the CV1800. Others have used other brands including a few who get used large truck cartridge air filters.
Go to a good fan table for material handling blowers, locate the column that has the same maximum static pressure as estimated for our system then pick the first impeller size that will move as much air as we want, generally 350 CFM for chip collection or 1000 CFM for fine dust collection. Anyone have opinions on whether the clearview is worth the ~$200 premium over the DDXL? Until recently this required you to spend the money to buy new filters. Likewise you should at the same time install a bigger outlet pipe in your cyclone that is half the cyclone diameter. By the time I paid shipping charges to return the two larger units they sent as replacements, I could have bought the best commercial blower and motor made. To size the motor we stay on the same line where we found our impeller and check to see how many horse power will be drawn at our lowest resistance level. Maybe an East Caroga metal cyclone, or a slightly bigger alternative . Yes, the key here is to make sure that it is big enough to not create a fast airflow out and long enough. With my shop vac the little Dust Deputy is adequate. Same diameter as the dust deputy XL but taller. When you next turn on your cyclone these dust coated filters fill our shops with that static collected fine dust, so we do this clean out and external filter cleaning to make sure it is not there. These were very pricey filters, should have been at least 500 instead of just just 450 square feet, and arrived with shipping damage. It is important to make sure the container is airtight for the system to work properly.
And yes, you still should use a 2-3 hp 3450-RPM blower motor. The cyclones are designed to have virtually no air movement near the opening at the bottom, so dust can settle via gravity in to the barrel.
The result is the air whips around once then crashes right into the incoming air creating all kinds of turbulence and poor separation. Funny thing is that I'm looking at the same decision right now. Standard ratios and dust bin end up making a 21" diameter cyclone too tall to fit under the normal 8' tall shop ceiling, plus 7" duct is difficult to find and expensive to buy.
With your current blower shroud you can either buy a bigger impeller or have a welder add more blade area to the tips of your impeller blade. Now in terms of your cyclone, can it handle this much pressure, only a maybe. In theory the 3X cone really helps with the finest dust separation, but in actually testing this length on a traditional cyclone design is not nearly as efficient as a 1.64 times the diameter length on my design.
They also carry the much bigger Farr compatible 300 square foot filters. These units are not self cleaning like typical material handling dust collector impellers. We really need at least a 3 hp dust collector or a 5 hp cyclone vented outside to be assured of moving enough air for good fine dust collection. Minimum resistance occurs with the shortest, most open, smoothest ducting run with cleanest filters.