The last wood working we have to do is making a handle for the vacuum cleaner. A vacuum that will operate for 10+ seconds off a pull cord. If the turbine of your motor has a very inconvenient shape (for example a protruding metal collar exactly at the height where the motor holders end) that prevents you from mounting it properly, try to slide some extra rubber-bits under the rubber-padding of the motor holders.
Now attach the power cord under the box with (2x) "PP05_Cable-Clamp" and two screws & washers each. The screw holes lie on the diagonal marks. If you happen to find one, feel free to go ahead and design an adaptor I'll add that version to the 3D-printer-files then. Sand the marks off and apply some linseed oil (or other finish, if you used something else). PLEASE NOTE: Before you attach the cord-pins you might want to skip to steps 202-204 and drill the holes for the handle-holders (PP10) first. 40mm: FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Drill (2x) 40mm-holes where you made a 40mm-mark before. and also the scavenged power-switch and the power regulator module. You can use pliers to tighten the nut on the shaft. Here are some examples: PP02-s38 fits a single spiral (s) hose with a 38mm-diameter.
Later the TOP-board will be screwed and glued on top of the wooden "H". The power regulator controls the speed at wich the motor spins. Putting some scrap-wood between the clamp and the box avoids clamp marks. Apply some force to the bond between the LEFT and RIGHT board and the INLET board by attaching a clamp to the box.
Associate Design Director, Industrial Design, How to Nail Perfect Lighting Set-Ups in Keyshot. PP1007 has built-in guides to mark the part's center that you need to align with the vertical mark. Do not make knots yet because we want to tighten the threads further later on. The two digits in the end stand for the hose diameter. The most common power-switch inside vacuum cleaners looks like the black and white models in the last three pictures. As Tenok is not battery powered, but directly connected to the power grid, you can of course not use a small motor from a battery-powered device, I have seen vacuum cleaner motors online where the backside (the side facing up in the picture) looks different. Repeat this until the motor sits tight. 4x office chair castors, 2x obsolete bicycle tubes and a synthetic scarf or other polyester- or nylon-fabric (min 50x25cm). MOTOR: Align the printed part "PP1001_Turbine-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the board. Step 136: Fetch the Electrical Components Scavenged & New.
It is absolutely sufficient. 
Step 148: Collect Parts for Frontal Motor Holders. Now finish attaching this piece by glueing the 20mm wide folded strips to the walls. Step 38: Assemble the Electronics Compartment. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line like on the other side of the boards. Vacuum table for CNC machines made out of aluminium with some useful features, Revive a B&D Dust Buster by replacing the NiCd/NiMH battery with 18650 cells, Open Source Freakin' Scanning Electron Microscope, DIY Beam-on-Target Fusion Particle Accelerator, NLA: DeWalt DW708 Mitre Saw "Dust Extactor", Old Russian VFD module converted into a clock, Open Source Turbomolecular Pump Controller, The DIYson, an open source Cyclone vacuum cleaner, Black & Decker - Dust Buster: battery replacement. When you deem the part properly aligned, trace the 4 screw-holes. More than half of all vacuum cleaners are trashed while they still work. corners with a pencil as shown in the pictures. Attach "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with 4 screws and washers. If you do not have a 40mm-drill, you can carefully cut those holes out with a jigsaw instead (like in the next step). The ones that you put up now, will be the outside surfaces. Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line like on the other side of the boards. Make sure the screw-threads fit through them.
As you can see in the diagram, our electronics start to come together: The heat-sensor-switch and the power-cord are already in! Now trace the two screw holes with a pencil. 
It does not matter to which of the two cables you solder it. LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. Put one of the cable tighteners (PP09) on the power cord. Put a fender washer on one of the 40mm-M5-hex-bolts, put it through the rubber and the printed part, put a fender washer on the end of the bolt and screw the whole package tight with an M5-nut (fourth picture). Step 70: And What About Those Other Two Wooden Pieces? In the end we will have this circuit in the vacuum cleaner: An on/off-switch, which is connected to the power regulator that controls how fast the motor is running and a heat-sensor-switch to turn everything off when it gets too warm that's it. The other terminal connects to the single wire that is already attached to the heat-sensor-switch. Flip the boards around so that all the OUTSIDE-marks and the INLET-mark are in the lower left corners. Remember that I wrote that I changed the handle design after I made the photos for this tutorial? Step 23: Mark 40mm-holes & Draw a 143mm-circle. However you can already make feet for the box and glue them on (see next steps). For drilling into the side surfaces it's helpful to put up some sort of guide, to align the board to it like I did in the photo, After drilling the boards are ready for assembly.
Use a paper punch to make a hole on each side. Glue and screw the BOTTOM-board to the "H.".
Cut the circle into strips, glue them to the side-walls of the circular hole and cut the tips. Refer to the list that is attached to this step to see, which settings are necessary for which part.
You can use the line-drawing in the beginning of the tutorial to identify the correct part. We need the NC-version because the switch shall let electricity through (=be closed) until it gets too warm and opens the circuit to stop the flow of electricity. Get your generic vacuum cleaner filter fabric, a compass, scissors and a ruler. In later steps I will refer to the workpieces by the NAMES you write on them now. Initially I thought this part might be removed now and then to put new gaskets under them, so I wanted to provide an option to drill new screw holes ones the first holes are worn out. Put glue on those surfaces of the INLET board that will be glued to the LEFT and RIGHT boards. To do so, use two small boards as guides to simulate the walls that will surround the.
To do so, we need to assemble it partly first. While the box dries you can already make it some "feet.". TOP OUTSIDE: Make marks to drill a 20mm-hole and two 30mm-marks. Follow it with your finger or a sharpie marker around the hose to see if it is a single thread or a double thread.
As we see in the diagram, the functional components are already complete, but the connection between them is not. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add two vertical marks per board. There are five different rubber parts: Some are made from pieces of tube, others are cut out of the tube. Align the printed part "PP12_Bag-coupling" with the marks on the board. The unmarked backside of the boards should now be up.. Now mark the backside of the boards in the lower right corners as you shown in the pictures. It is possible to print the PETG-parts from PLA instead, but they become less flexible / break more easily. That way you should be able to create a shape that works with your motor. In the next steps we will make the pieces one by one. For this project that works better than listing them here. Put the biggest of the filters we made earlier into outlet-filter-holder we attached in the previous step. Align the feet with the edges of the bottom and clamp them to the box. BOTTOM INSIDE: Make a mark to drill a 8mm-hole. I might make a separate tutorial about sewing a small drawstring-bag in the future, but for now using another one is just fine. Make marks to drill a 20mm-hole and two 30mm-marks. Those would require a special adaptor, but they seem to be not so common and I did not find one yet. If you can get this glue great, use it! Us normal mortals drill a hole (~8mm) and cut out the circular 143mm-hole from there with a jigsaw.
That way you avoid the risk of messing up the finished surface. ###. When you deem the part properly aligned, trace the 4 screw-holes. Step 102: Place the Last Aluminum Foil Piece. When you screw the screws in, push the printed part down firmly on the rubber so that it does not move around when you drive the screw through it. Attach the castors by pressing their rods into the holes we drilled in the feet of the box. It would also have been too big for the photo. Now that you know how long to cut your rubber pieces, make three more of them and place them on the front hatch like I did in the picture. One goes in from the side and one from the back (first picture). I needed a vacuum pump for making some FRP parts, so I modded an aquarium air pump for that. ### PLEASE ALSO NOTE: DETAILLED TOOL LIST BELOW! Now trace the 16 screw holes (8 per part). The designations might be slightly different, but as long as it is clear where the power goes in and where it goes out that's fine. PP02-d42 fits a double spiral (d) hose with a 42mm-diameter.
LEFT-side-surface / RIGHT-side-surface: Add three horizontal marks per board. Do not touch the hatched areas around the edges yet. Step 177: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 1/2. ###. I will provide some additional information about suitable motors and switches in the coming steps. This piece needs to cover the walls that have no foil on them yet, so make sure to place it right. Step 179: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 2/2. Remove about 50mm of the power cords's outer sheathing and from each end of the piece you cut off, so that the inner cables are revealed. FRONT INSIDE / REAR INSIDE: Align the printed parts "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and "PP1009_Rear-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the boards. The two digits in the end stand for the hose diameter. That is why we will need small screwholes in this "H" that align with the bigger 5mm-screw-holes of the TOP-board. A used hose is that hygienic to use? For the next steps we do not need the two slender pieces so you can put them aside. To make the motor gasket, we need to cut the tube open. The guides on the outside of PP12 need to be aligned with the diagonal marks.